Whiskey Trails Part I: Buffalo Trace

The Blue Grass Diet:
It’s Not Just for Horses Anymore

Graham Waller's Hot Brown

Wroburlto and I always begin a day in Lexington at Winchell’s for a state of the art southern breakfast. Winchell's was the first American sports bar I ever found that upgraded the culinary aspects of its genre to Japanese and Argentinian levels. Owner-chef Graham Waller is as forthcoming with candor as he is with Kentucky country ham, grits, eggs and a special blue & white pancake concoction that celebrates the University of Kentucky colors.

“I was a bad boy coming out of high school. At one point, I was basically given a choice of going to jail, going to reform school or going to work for Quita. I chose her restaurant and she worked my butt off. But she encouraged me to the point that I found myself going to the CIA (Culinary Institute of America). She‘s influenced a lot of what‘s going on here,” he confessed.
He was referring to chef Quita Michel, one of the great Southern chefs in America. Ouita and her husband Chris, own Holly Hill Inn in Midway. That restaurant’s reputation influenced our decision to visit the Bluegrass Country, so I was excited to hear her praises sung. (We'll meet Quita in Whiskey Trails Part II.) Wro was more excited about Graham’s bad boy image, reminding me that rebels have often influenced the great flavors of Kentucky.

Geology & Whiskey

After the 1792 Whiskey Rebellion in Pennsylvania, many Irish and Scottish settlers came looking for respite from federal tax collectors. Those rebels had a tradition of distilling rye whiskey, but the Kentucky climate was too hot and humid for that grain. In the bluegrass area, they discovered a divine coincidence of geology and weather - perfect for making whiskey. The limestone soil was ideal for growing corn, a rebel grain at a time when wheat was the grain of sophisticates and international trade, and when rye was the poor man’s wheat. Plus the limestone-enriched water was superior for distilling spirits.

Note: whiskey is spelled with an “e” in Ireland, but without an “e” in the United Kingdom and Canada. Probably because sons of Eire predominated in Kentucky, bourbons use the Irish spelling. Wro sometimes thinks he’s an Irish bard, so I use that spelling in lieu of increased doses of lithium.

Today’s Bourbon Trail extends 80 miles southeast of Lexington and is home to 17 distilleries. The name predates statehood; several present counties of Kentucky were in Bourbon County, Virginia. Most bourbon is made with 70 % corn, though only 51 % is required. Bourbon also must be aged in charred oak barrels for at least two years. We decided to visit two distillers who make super premium products.

We drove to Frankfort where the Buffalo Trace distillery hugs the banks of the Kentucky River. Originally named Old Fired Copper, they have been making bourbon continuality since 1787. (During Prohibition, they wrangled a special permit to make whiskey “for medicinal purposes.”) The grounds encompass 119 acres and 114 buildings dating to 1881. They offer tours six days a week, year round. Among their distinctions, they were the first distiller to ship whiskey down the Mississippi River, to use steam power for distilling and to heat warehouses. They are currently the only distiller: to use five whiskey recipes; to create vodka from organic corn; and to have a computer-free still house.

After repeal of Prohibition, Albert Blanton began producing single-barrel bourbon for himself and his friends. In 1984 the distillery became the first to commercially market a single-barrel bourbons. They changed their name in 1999 - because the site was once a major crossing for migrating buffalo, which, as Wro points out, look really hot on a label. When renamed, they introduced their super premium Buffalo Trace Kentucky straight bourbon. Approximately 30-35 barrels of aged whiskey are selected from the middle floors of three warehouses. If anyone on their tasting panel rejects a sample, the barrel is voted off the island. Only 25 to 30 barrels are chosen. The others become Blanton's, W. L. Weller, Old Charter and Eagle Rare. When we visited, a tornado had taken the roof and wall off the warehouse, but not a single drop was spilled from the massive wooden beam old-aging home. Our tour guide told us that the grain leftover from the whiskey making process is so valued by cattlemen that it sells for more than the original cost of the grain!

“That works out great for everyone but the pigs. We used to just give it away to them."

Wallace Station: Historically correct chicken

Half way between Frankfort and Lexington is Midway - a pun intended by the railroad that founded the historic town. Well into its second century of gentrification, Midway has overcome some dubious history to become the heart of horse country and bluegrass tourism: Jesse James’ mother was born and raised in a tavern here and another old tavern claims to have invented the porterhouse steak; To prevent a recurrence of such things, hard liquor is forbidden in the town’s cafés today.

We visited the former train stop called Wallace Station, now known for the faithful recreation of old fashioned fried chicken, right down to historically correct cast iron skillets. Our server dropped a familiar name on us: The owners of this bakery-country store-deli and chicken shack are Ouita Michel’s sister Paige, and her husband Jared Richardson. Jared’s fried chicken was the first reason I had passed up Winchell’s two nights earlier. He cooked it in deep pans, filled half way with vegetable oil, not lard. His collard greens with homemade habanero vinegar were superb. Cheese grits were smooth. Black eyed peas and some fabulous lard-fried corn bread rounded out the meal.

The Milk of Great Compromise

Back in Lexington, we visited Ashland, home of the “Great Compromiser” Henry Clay, the captain of the United States legislator’s all time, all star team. Since the city maintains 17 acres of Clay’s original farm as city park, it draws history buffs, architects and nostalgia lovers. We visited because Clay had been a progressive foodie.

We saw how pipes from two silo-style ice hoses cooled the milk in his dairy, which his wife Lucretia sold downtown. We heard how the six-time Speaker of the House brought several new breeds of livestock and the first gingko tree to Kentucky. And that he planted hemp for medicinal purposes only, oh wait, no it was actually as cash crop. In a related vein, or not, Clay kept what docents called “a pleasure yard,” next to his house. They said that meant it was livestock-free. Today dogs are allowed as well as bi-polar honeybears - as long as they are on leashes and medications respectively.

Another Ex-Bad Boy

Nineteenth century history makes me hungry. So we headed to the historic downtown district where the elegant Jonathan’s at Gratz Park serves regional cuisine with flair. Owner-chef Jonathan Lundy comes from Midway horse country and is a self-confessed “spoiled rich kid.” He says he wasn’t exactly born loving food.

“My mother didn’t do much cooking, so I grew up cooking ‘Chicken and Stars’ and ‘Chef Boyardee’ in the microwave. I remember once when my father was enjoying olives and insisted that I eat an olive. He made me put one in my mouth and I sat there with it for an hour until he finally gave up. But because of that I don’t ever push anything on anyone,” he explained, adding that he still can’t enjoy olives.

Jonathan told us he never had a job until his father tired of his wildness and arranged a restaurant apprenticeship when he was 20 - with Emeril Lagasse in New Orleans.

“This was during the first year of Emeril’s first restaurant, when he was there all the time. I spent about six months there and didn’t get paid, but had a good time when I wasn’t working. He arranged for me to go to Johnson and Wales (the Harvard of culinary colleges). I didn’t have to do anything. I didn’t even fill out paper work, nothing. I just showed up. I did my two years at Johnson and Wales and came back here and got a job,” he explained.

Jonathan worked at Nadine’s and Rossi’s, two of Lexington’s better restaurants. Jonathan and his wife then persuaded the Gratz Park Hotel to let them move in and offer regional cuisine. That meant things like burgoo topped with white cheddar grits, “hot brown” scallops served with country ham and smoked bacon, Kentucky trout pate with cucumber rolls and horseradish cream, and, this being Lexington, fried banana peppers with green tomato relish.

“I knew that was what I wanted, there was nothing like it at the time,” he recalled.

“We try to do as much as we can with local farmers and ranchers. Kentucky Bison Company in Goshen has a good product. The country ham I like the best is Colonel Newsome’s in Princeton (KY). We use Weisenberger Mill for hominy and wheat products, they’re in Midway, and Sheltowee Farms for mushrooms,” he credited his local providers.
The elegant historic dining room pleased Wro, who had dressed up for the occasion. We began dinner with a carpaccio of Kentucky bison, served with whole roasted cloves of garlic, fresh arugula and toast points. It was softer and more flavorful than any beef carpaccio I have tasted. Because we visited during racing season, a deviled egg trio included offerings with country ham, smoked salmon and Benedictine. We were told that deviled eggs go with horse racing like hot dogs go with baseball. I never had a Benedictine wiener though.

Jonathan’s is known for grilled Caesar salad. Romaine leaves were dredged in dressing and grilled “just enough to bring out some flavor without losing crispness,” then served it with crispy black eyed peas. We applauded those peas, so they came back for an encore - coating Kentucky trout and served with bibb lettuce wilted in brown butter, and caramelized onions. We applauded that course even louder, but the peas were done for the evening. We weren’t though.
Jonathan is also famous for his rock salt chicken, so much so that it was the second reason I passed up chicken at Winchell‘s. Jonathan’s deserves its reputation, and that comes from a Chinese chef who experiences more rock salt chicken in a typical month than most people do in a lifetime.
We tried scallops served with a corn cake, wilted arugula and sweet pepper relish. We also indulged in a bacon-wrapped beef filet, though Jonathan described it as a “rookie dish.” That was hardly accurate because Maker’s Mark (bourbon) gives Jonathan their old walnut barrel plugs and he uses those to smoke the bacon. Jonathan redefines regional cooking with such signature touches. Similarly his crème brulee was seasoned with butterscotch liqueur and was burned down at the table with rare 150 proof bourbon.

“We believe you need a substantial crust. We serve it flaming and I hope the server tells you to let it burn completely out. Otherwise it will taste of bourbon and that will ruin it,” he explained. Wro is not known for his patience, but he heeded this warning.

Jonathan confided that he is spending much of his time on his home made ice creams. “I entertain hope that they are a ticket out of the restaurant business.”

We tried a trio, but his reputable chocolate bourbon brownie flavor was sold out. Wro was so upset about that I had to take him to Harvest for another dessert. Their chef then was John Foster (now at Metropol) whose frozen gelato was legendary amongst honeybears. He made honey lavender gelato with lavender grown on the restaurant patio. I know multiple desserts aren't part of the good parenting handbook but we both slept that night.

Wro’s Recommendations

Lexington Convention and Visitors Bureau
301 East Vine
Lexington, KY 40507
859-233-1221
http://www.visitlex.com/

Wallace Station
3854 Old Frankfort Pike
Versailles, KY 40383
859-8465161

Jonathan at Gratz Park
120 W 2nd St.
Lexington, KY 40508
859-252-4949
http://www.jagp.com/

Winchell’s
348 Southland Dr.
Lexington, KY 40503
859-278-9424

Note: It wasn’t on our agenda, but it should be noted that Lexington is home to so many Japanese businesses that there is also a first rate sushi scene here. I have that on the authority of every chef we met.

Buffalo Trace
1001 Wilkinson Blvd., 40601,
Frankfort, KY, 502-223-7641,
http://www.buffalotrace.com/