Door County Cooking Schools

Where Multiple Personalities Are a Good Thing

Sometimes my bipolar bear Wroburlto tries to argue his way out his doctor’s appointment with deductive logic:

“If we are what we eat, then I can learn more about myself in cooking school than in psychotherapy.”

The more we travel, the more sense his argument makes to me. Recipes can be marvelous lessons in anthropology, history, ethnicity and human coping. For instance, we keep finding that immigrants are more apt to preserve heirloom recipes than the folks who remained in the old country. In a strange land, a recipe becomes a sacred touchstone to the family history and changes would be blasphemous. Back in the old country, the same recipe evolves as new ingredients and convenient short cuts become available. Today, you might have better luck finding authentic 19th century Bohemian dishes in Texas or Iowa than in Bohemia.

There’s always an old way and new way to cook the same thing. Often, the new ways develop to cope with environmental or economic crises. In the Iliad, Homer’s warriors roasted an entire ox over a blazing wood fire every 200 verses. By the Golden Age of Athens, wood were so scarce that the Greeks invented braziers and charcoal out of necessity. Maybe that’s where Plato got his line about “the mother of invention.”

Different schools in Door County, Wisconsin teach cooking from all points of the old versus new dilemma. So I decided to take Wro there for multifaceted sessions in the good eating -- and self analysis.

A Kingdom So Delicious

When French fur trader Pierre Esprit Radisson discovered the Door County peninsula in the late 1600’s, he dubbed it "A Kingdom So Delicious." That kicked off a three hundred year old tradition of converting the county’s abundance of fish, food and game into breakfast, lunch and dinner. National Geographic magazine used Radisson's quote as a title for a 1969 cover story that turned the county one of America's first culinary tourism destinations. These days food-oriented travelers visit to experience Door's unique variety of crops, its commercial fishing industry, organic farms, grass-fed ranches, a USDA Potato Gene Bank and cherry, grape and apple harvests.

Savory Spoon - State of the Kitchen Art

Three very different cooking schools allow them to apply the kingdom’s bounty in both old and new ways. Since Wro is a contemporary bear, we began our education at Michael and Janice Thomas’ Savory Spoon Cooking School and Marketplace (SS). From first impressions, you’d think this place was old fashioned. It occupies Ellison Bay’s original school house, opened in 1879. As Wro often says (about himself, usually) - don’t be fooled by first impressions. This place is state of the art.
Michael remodeled the old school house into a modern cook’s dream kitchen with: Wolf Sub Zero appliances; refrigerated drawers on a butchering island; warming drawers all over; plus a dishwasher that runs on a one minute cycle! From June through October, Janice teaches classes ($75) for up to 16 students. She runs culinary tours to France and other destinations in other months.

During our class, Janice divided students into teams and supervised us preparing a full menu of: pork tenderloin medallions in Port wine & cherry sauce; a salad of roasted apples, pecans, cherries and Black River blue cheese; a Swiss chard and black olive tart; green bears with orange and toasted maple pecans; and a blueberry tart.

Our menu turned out well, in large part because Janice stalked her students to prevent us from messing up her recipes. Wro, who likes to improvise in the kitchen, was supervised more than anyone else. SS distinguishes itself from most cooking schools by offering access to cutting edge tools of the trade. Even professional chefs can find things here they have never seen before. Best of all, we get to use and compare them.

For instance, Janice encouraged us to try out several different kinds of cutting boards: bamboo cutting boards to chop onions and inlaid walnut and oak cutting board to chop celery. We used more kinds of knives and knife sharpeners than I knew existed. We tried out three different tools that were designed just to peel garlic, though none worked for as well as our trusty old Chinese cleaver.

“Raspers for zest, rollers for garlic,” Janice advised as Wro appeared frustrated about so many apparatus options.

Her amazing pantry included things that I had only previously seen at the Fancy Foods Show - blood orange vinegar, Maldon salt, etc.. SS stocks a large inventory of trendy things. So if you fall in love with a new rasper or an old Himalayan salt, you can probably buy it after class.

I don’t believe I ever met anyone who was as familiar with so many different kitchen appliances, tools, gadgets and luxury condiments. If I ever have to throw a party in a brand new million dollar mansion, I would want Janice to help me inaugurate my kitchen. Coincidentally, she does that, frequently. Among several special services, she offers, “kitchen christenings.” People all over North America fly Janice into their new homes to help them throw its first party without the stress of wondering how their state of the art kitchen works. Like, what do you do with refrigerated drawers?

Washington Hotel - “Make-Do” Cookery

To get to our next session of self discovery, we had to cross Death’s Door. I’m not being dramatic. That’s the name of the strait between the Door County peninsula and Washington Island. Wisconsin’s largest island, at 36 square miles, it’s located just north of “the tension line” which marks the halfway point between the Equator and the North Pole. Although I am familiar with all kinds of tension, II never heard of that before Wisconsin. In Door County, someone brought it up every couple hours. I think it’s supposed to make you feel better about the choppy sea.

At the end of Highway 42 we luckily ran into Northport Pier and the Washington Island Ferry. Tip: Get there by 6:45 (or 4:30 in winter). Otherwise you will have to paddle a canoe to the island to be there before the next morning. If you get voted off the island, you have to get to the ferry by 6:15.

After vehicles ($24) and passengers ($11) were loaded on the deck, we took a 30-minute ride past nearby Plum, Pilot and Detroit Islands. Wro was told that he was making the same passage as: the Native Americans who paddled their canoes from island to island; French explorers who came to the area; and schooners that traveled the area a century ago. He enjoyed the rough ride more than his Mamabear did. I don’t like still water, let alone the kind that foams at the mouth and jumps up and down around your boat. I had to admit though, the ride was worth it.

In 1850 immigrants founded the second oldest Icelandic settlement in the US on the island. It quickly became a shipping center. Today it’s a friendly year-round home to 650 people and an destination for tens of thousands of visitors each year, mostly in summer. To my land-loving joy, one of the first things we saw after escaping the boat was the Washington Hotel - our reason for being there. Built by a ship captain, the hotel had been a service for boat workers during repairs. It quickly became a tourist attraction and culinary destination.

Current hotel owner Leah Caplan is a respected chef, spirits historian and Slow Food Movement guru. Her resume includes a Culinary Institute of America degree, and twenty years in top kitchens of Tokyo, New York, the Carolinas and Madison, Wisconsin. That latter town is home to America‘s best farmers market -- New York Times R. W. Apple proclaimed it that and no one else ever possessed as broad a perspective as he did. Leah worked closely there with a lot of local niche farmers and food artisans.
“Seven years ago I took a bite of an apple and immediately bought in to the Fresh & Local philosophy,” she told us. Once under its spell, she started looking for a place to expand its dogma. She found the hotel, or the hotel found her. Neither is sure which but they agree that they were made for each other.

“We’re just trying to keep the hotel’s tradition and revive farming and sustainable agriculture on the island in so doing,” Leah said.

Agriculture needed revival, almost nothing was being grown here when she bought the place. Leah’s first thought was to restore the local potato industry but the island couldn’t compete price-wise with industrial potatoes from out west. She figured that local agriculture would need to add value to its raw product to make sense, or dollars.

“We thought about vodka and potato chips,” Leah explained. By the time her thought process reached that point, she had built a bakery. It needed wheat more than it needed potatoes.

“Because local agriculture disappeared before the middle of the 20th century, there have never been any (agricultural) chemicals on the island. So organic wheat was easier to grow here than elsewhere. One farmer promised to grow 30 acres of it,” she recalled.

Caplan promised to buy whatever he produced. Ever since then she has made all the hotel’s pasta and bakery goods with Washington Island organic wheat. Her brick overn pizza are made with island wheat flour too. She now produces well-reviewed organic vodka, gin and whiskey from local grains. Two years ago, her Island Wheat Ale became the biggest selling new product in USA microbrewery history.

“And we still have wheat leftover, from just 30 acres,” she beamed, like a wise lady.

Caplan uses flax as a rotation crop every 3 years and has encouraged locals to diversify the island’s home grown bounty.

“A friend has organic chickens and wants organic chicken sausage. So we’re thinking about that for the flax,” she explained.

Even her recipe after thoughts are local. Death’s Door Gin uses Leah’s home grown juniper berries, coriander and fennel. She says that maybe the new sustainable agriculture will reverse a 70 year trend of young people leaving the island after high school.

“The bigger hope is that sustainable food economy will stop the exodus of kids from the island - by offering an industry other than tourism, which is too seasonal to support families here. We want to grow 100 per cent of the products we need here and revive fishing too. There are only two fishermen left on the island,” Caplan explained.

Only whitefish and their by-catch, the burbot, can be commercially fished without limits. So, of course, Leah uses burbot (a.k.a. eelpout) even though it has a two day shelf life and can’t be frozen.

“It’s called the lawyer fish, because it’s heart is in its ass,” she laughed.

To facilitate sustainability, Leah installed steam showers instead of Jacuzzis and only uses organic bed linens in the hotel. She burns used butcher paper and cloths in her ovens. The restaurant buys island raised beef and lamb and uses the whole animal in the kitchen.

Caplan employs twenty people at the hotel, including her mom and cousins. She also owns a coffeehouse in Madison that uses island-made products too, especially brick oven goods.

“That way I can keep a baker employed year around,” she explained.

As you might have guessed, Leah’s cooking school is as different from the Savory Spoon‘s as Hannah Glasse is different from Martha Stewart. Leah’s courses include “Oneida Life Sustenance” “Indian Cuisine in the Heartland” and “Cave Aged Cheese.” Big events include Caplan’s “Juniper Harvest and Cooking with Spirits Weekend” (each November) and “A Meal in a Wheatfield” each July.

Wro and I learned to make crepes and then tried some of Leah’s inventive products - homemade vanilla extract, made by marinating vanilla beans in vodka.

“Vodka livens acidity, which is why it’s so good with citrus,” she told Wro.

There were no Savory Spoon type amenities here.

“I am a make-do chef. I make crepes, lots of them, and I have never used a crepe pan in my life. A frying pan will do fine for me, thank you,” she said laughing while showing Wro how to flip a crepe without a crepe pan.

Inn at Kristoffer’s

Door County’s third exceptional cooking school had a very different genesis. After careers in mortgage writing, public relations and fund raising, Terri and Christopher Milligan decided to open a restaurant in Door County. They expanded their vision to included a cooking school in 1993 when they found the perfect location adjacent to a marina in the adorable village Sister Bay. Former corporate exec Christopher manages the front of the house while Terri manages the kitchen.

Unrestrained by the limitations of Washington Island’s sustainable agriculture, Terri is able to focus on fresh and local foods that would be comfortable in San Francisco or New York. Both her school and restaurant set a cosmopolitan table based around her back yard garden, the woods and the bay.

On our visit, sous chef Eric Thomas had discovered a surprise special ingredient for the menu - wild chanterelles. Terri said he also finds marvelous wild cepps in fall and morels in the spring. A relaxing ambiance and Terri’s warm personality made the inn a perfect place for us to wind up our lessons and sessions. We lingered over a four hour dinner as the setting sun turned Green Bay blue, red and then black.

I start salivating just recalling all the marvelous things we ate there. Caesar salad featured local lettuce too young and fresh to be out after dark - so we ate it fast before the sun set. Zucchini fritters were accented with mint from Terri’s restaurant garden and served with the best chutney (apricot and cherry) anywhere. Green Bay whitefish was pan fried in cashew flour and served on a chantrelle and crawfish risotto, with a lemongrass lobster broth finish. Salmon was baked in parchment paper with fresh vegetable. Brie was topped with local apples, figs, blackberries and cherries that had been cooked in sweetened cinnamon brandy.

Pumpkin caramel custard and crème brulee (burnt tableside) were as rich as the greens were fresh. Local currants, blueberries, cherries and even bumble berries all made their way into a pie.

I know that sounds like a lot of desserts and it was. Then we found out that Terri and Eric made Tart Tatin, the most famous upside down food in the world. We indulged in that puff pastry of French kings, for purposes of self discovery.

Evaluating the three psycho-culinary sessions, Wro and I concluded:

~ Savory Spoon is the best place to go if you need discipline, or if you want to try out the latest in kitchen gadgetry or technology.
~ Washington Hotel is the best place to go if you want to save the world from industrial food, or just to experience the joys of old fashioned cooking, coping and flavors.
~ The Inn at Kristofer’s is the best place to go if you want to enjoy magnificent cosmopolitan food in delightful ambiance.

If you have three personalities, like some of us, then you need to experience all three.

If You Go

Savory Spoon Cooking School
12042 Highway 42
Ellison Bay, WI 54210, 920-854-6600
www.savoryspoon.com

Washington Hotel & Cooking School
354 Range Line Road
Washington Island, WI 54246, 920-847-2169
www.thewashingtonhotel.com

The Inn at Kristofer's10716 N. Bay Shore Dr.Sister Bay, WI 54235, 920-854-9419
www.innatkristofers.com

Lodging
Washington Hotel
354 Range Line Road
Washington Island, WI 54246, 920-847-2169
www.thewashingtonhotel.com

Landmark Resort4955 Landmark Circle Unit 4215, Egg Harbor, WI 54209, 920- 868-3205www.thelandmarkresort.com

Outdoor pool, indoor pool, hot tubs, fireplace in lobby, steam rooms, fitness center, game room, tennis court, shuffleboard court, volleyball court, basketball court, laundromat

White Gull Inn 4225 Main Street ~ PO Box 160 ~ Fish Creek, WI 54212, 888-364-9542 www.whitegullinn.com
Exquisite antique furnishings and a fabulous dining room anchor this inn that has been part of county lore for three centuries. Walking distance to the county's best shopping too.

Recipes

Janice Thomas’ Port & Cherry Wine Sauce (for pork medallions)
2/3 cup port
1/3 cup cherry wine
Half cup dried cherries, chopped
Half cup fresh tart cherries, chopped
1 ½ cups chicken stock
2 teaspoons fresh chopped thyme

Place saute pan over medium heat and add port, cherry wine and
cherries. Boil until reduced by half, scraping bottom of pan while
reducing. Add stock, thyme and additional juices from your entree.
Boil sauce until it becomes slightly thick. Add your cooked meat and
reheat. Serve on warm platter with garnish of fresh thyme.

Terri Milligan’s Pumpkin Creme Caramel

Makes 7 to 8 depending on the size of your ramekins

Caramel1 cup sugar1/3 cup water
Pumpkin Custard6 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks1 cup canned unsweetened pumpkin puree1/2 teaspoon cinnamon1/4 teaspoon ginger1/4 t. ground cloves2 teaspoons vanilla extract or one split vanilla bean2/3 cup sugar1 1/2 cups milk1/4 teaspoon salthot tap water for baking custards

Lightly spray eight 7 to 8-ounce ramekins with non-stick spray such as PAM (or lightly butter them). I prefer to use ramekins that have straight edges as it makes unmolding easier.In a heavy saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Cook over medium heat until sugar is dissolved. DO NOT STIR. Swirl the pan by the handle if you need to combine the ingredients.Raise the heat once the sugar is melted and cook until the mixture begins to turn a deep caramel color (about 10 to 15 minutes).

When caramelized, carefully pour the mixture evenly on the bottom of the 7 or 8 ramekins. Tilt the ramekins to make sure the bottoms are completely covered with caramel.Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, egg yolks, pumpkin and spices.In a small saucepan, heat the milk with the vanilla extract or the split vanilla bean. Carefully pour the milk into the egg mixture, whisking the combine. If using a vanilla bean, remove the split bean from the mixture. Divide the mixture evenly among the ramekins. Place the ramekins in a baking pan with sides at least 2 inches high. Pour enough hot tap water in the pan to go up halfway on the outside of the ramekins.Place the baking pan with the ramekins in the preheated oven and bake for approximately 60 minutes or until the center of the custards are set.Remove from the oven. Carefully lift the ramekins from the water bath. Let them cool for about 30 minutes then place them in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours or overnight if possible.
To unmold, take a small paring knife and loosen the sides of the custard. Invert onto a dessert plate and garnish with whipped cream and chopped pecans if desired.

Janet Thomas’ Fresh Blueberry Tart

Crust
1 cup flour
Half cup unsalted butter, softened
Pinch of salt
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 tbsp. white vinegar
Place flour, sugar, salt and sugar in food processor and pulse five
times until it appears to be ground meal. Add vinegar and pulse till it
comes together like a mass. Press doough into a 9 inch tart pan with a
removable bottom and up the side to creat a strong edge.

Filling
3 cups blueberries
Half cup cugar
2 Tbsp. Flour
¼ tsp. Cinnamon
Preheat oven to 400 F.
Toss sugar, flour and cinnamon with two cups of rinsed berries. Pour those into prepared pastry. Bake at 400 degrees F for 45
minutes to an hour.
Remove from oven and immediately top with the remaining
berries. Let cool for 30 minutes and remove from the pan. Slice and
serve.

Terri Milligan’s Salmon with Spring Vegetables in Papillot

Serves 6
6 tablespoons hoisin sauce
(available in the Oriental section of most supermarkets)
2/3 cup orange juice
2 cloves of garlic, minced
six 8-ounce salmon filets, skin removed and pin-boned
24 pieces of fresh asparagus
1 zucchini, julienne sliced
1 yellow squash, julienne sliced
1 red bell pepper, julienne sliced
zest of one orange
6 pieces of parchment paper - approximately 24 inch squares
Combine the hoisin sauce, orange juice and garlic in a mixing bowl. Place salmon filets in a glass pan. Pour marinade over the
salmon pieces, turning to coat. Refrigerate in the marinade for 30 minutes.
Combine the zucchini, yellow squash and red pepper in a bowl. Unfold one of the pieces of parchment paper. Place 1/6th of thevegetable mixture on the paper, approximately 2 inches from the center crease. Place a piece of marinated salmon on top of the vegetables. Top with 4 asparagus spears and a few pieces of orange zest. Carefully fold in the edges of the parchment to seal, starting at the top of the heart.
Place on a large baking sheet. You should be able to place three
salmon on a sheet pan, depending on their size. You do not want to
over crowd them. Repeat process to make a total of 6 salmon
papillots.
Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes. Remove from the
oven and transfer the packets to serving plates. Carefully slit open
the top of the paper to let the steam escape and expose the cooked
fish. Serve fish in the paper.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Slice off tips of the asparagus.
Trim and discard the tough lower end of the asparagus and cut the
spear in half crosswise. Slice each asparagus half into very thin
matchsticks and transfer to a medium bowl. Reserve asparagus
tips in another container.
Fold each piece of parchment in half. Cut into a large heart
shape. The paper should look like a large valentine.

Terri Milligan’s Apricot and Door County Cherry Chutney
Makes approximately 3 cups
Serve this delicious chutney on crackers with a piece of montrachet or
bleu cheese. It's also great with grilled pork tenderloin, chicken breast
or duck!
1/3 cup white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger
1 large garlic clove, chopped
1 1/2 cups chopped dried apricots
1/2 cup dried Door County cherries
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
a pinch of cayenne pepper
a pinch of salt
approximately 2 cups water - or as needed to just cover mixture
In a food processor or blender, combine the vinegar, ginger and garlic. Pulse to combine the ginger and garlic with the vinegar.
Pour into a nonreactive heavy medium saucepan. Add the remaining ingredients and pour in enough water to barely cover. Stir well.
Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, stirring often to dissolve the sugar. Cook slowly stirring oven to avoid scorching, until the chutney thickens and the liquid is syrupy - about 45 minutes to one hour. Cool completely before serving.
Store, covered, in the refrigerator or can for future use.